Belle Epoque Sweater

INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

INCREASE TIP-1:
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 88 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 18) = 4.9.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 5th stitch. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2 and A.3).

RAGLAN:
Increase for raglan on each side of A.1 in every transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on every increase round). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on next round knit yarns over to make holes.
Work the increased stitches in stockinette stitch on sleeves and according to diagram on front and back piece.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sides on body and mid under sleeves):
Begin 4 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 4 (marker is between these 4 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to purl sections on body):
Increase 1 stitch in every purl section by making 1 yarn over before all 2 purl stitches. On next round purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
On next increase make 1 yarn over after every 3 purl stitches. Continue increase by alternately increasing at beginning and end of purl section.

INCREASE TIP-3 (applies to sides of body):
Begin 3 stitches before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 6 (marker thread is in the middle of these 6 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-4 (applies to sections in stockinette stitch over A.3 on body):
When A.3 has been done, work in stockinette stitch over the 9-9-9-11-11-11 stitches with lace pattern. Increase over these 9-9-9-11-11-11 stitches as follows: Work 1 stitch in stockinette stitch, make 1 yarn over, work in stockinette stitch until 1 stitch in stockinette stitch remains, make 1 yarn over, work 1 stitch in stockinette stitch. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
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SWEATER:
Worked in the round on circular needle from top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 88-92-96-100-104-108 stitches on a short circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Big Merino. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH in the round – see explanation above. Knit 1 round while increasing 18-14-10-18-14-10 stitches evenly – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 106-106-106-118-118-118 stitches. Knit 1 round. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and work yoke as explained below.

YOKE:
Insert 1 marker at beginning of round and work first round as follows: Work A.1 (= 8 stitches), make 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches in stockinette stitch (= sleeve cap), make 1 yarn over, work A.1 , make 1 yarn over, work A.2 (= 35-35-35-41-41-41 stitches), make 1 yarn over, work A.1, make 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches in stockinette stitch (= sleeve cap), make 1 yarn over, work A.1, make 1 yarn over, work A.2 (= 35-35-35-41-41-41 stitches), make 1 yarn over = 118-118-118-130 -130-130 stitches (including yarn overs in A.1).
Continue pattern like this. AT THE SAME TIME on every other round increase for RAGLAN – see explanation above, until increase has been done 14-18-20-21-24-26 times on each side of A.1 (including increases on first round after neck edge) . REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
NOTE! When A.2 has been worked, continue pattern the same way, but work the next increased stitches on each side of A.1 in stockinette stitch. In size S the increases for raglan is done when 3 rounds remain in A.2, continue pattern without increase as explained below.
After last increase for raglan there are 230-262-278-298-322-338 stitches on needle if it is on a round with 8 stitches in A.1 or 234-266-282-302-326-342 stitches if it is on a round with 9 stitches in A.1.
Continue pattern as before without increases for raglan until piece measures 17-19-21-23-25-27 cm / 6 3/4″-7½”-8 1/4″-9″-9 3/4″-10½’ ‘ from cast-on edge mid front, but finish so that last round on needle is a round with 8 stitches in A.1.
Work next round as follows: Work 0-0-0-0-0-1 stitches in stockinette stitch, slip the next 48-56-60-62-67-68 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6 -8-8-10-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), continue with stockinette stitch and pattern as before over the next 65-73-77-85-93-101 stitches (= front piece), slip the next 50-58-62-64-68-68 stitches on 1 stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitch on needle (= in the side under sleeve), continue with stockinette stitch and pattern as before over the next 65-73-77-85-93-100 stitches (= back piece) and slip the remaining 2-2-2-2-1-0 stitches on stitch holder for first sleeve. Finish body and sleeves separately.

NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 142-158-170-186-206-226 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches that were cast on under sleeve in each side. Begin round at one of the marker thread and move the marker threads when working.
Work first round as follows: Work in stockinette stitch over the first 7-11-14-13-18-23 stitches, work A.3 over the next 55-55-55-65-65-65 stitches (= 5 repetitions of 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches, continue on correct round in diagram), purl 2, 14-22-28-26-36-46 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.3 over the next 55-55- 55-65-65-65 stitches, purl 2 and work in stockinette stitch over the remaining 7-11-14-13-18-23 stitches. Continue the pattern like this – READ THE REST OF BODY BEFORE CONTINUING!

DECREASE IN THE SIDES:
When piece measures 1 cm / 3/8” from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read DECREASE TIP (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every other round 5 times in total in each side = 122-138-150-166-186-206 stitches.

INCREASE IN PURL SECTIONS:
When piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8” from division, increase 1 stitch in every purl section (= 12 stitches increased on round) – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 5 cm / 2” 6 times in total in every purl section (there are now 8 stitches in each of these purl sections).

INCREASE IN THE SIDES:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 7 cm / 2¾” from division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-3 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 6 cm / 2 3/8” 3 times in total in each side.

INCREASE IN STOCKINETTE STITCH SECTIONS:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 15 cm / 6” from division, finish A.3. Then work knit over knit and purl over purl over these stitches. On next round increase 2 stitches in each stockinette stitch section over A.3 – read INCREASE TIP-4 (= 20 stitches increased).
Repeat this increase after 2 cm / 3/4” (= 20 stitches increased).

When all increases are done there are 246-262-274-290-310-330 stitches on row. Continue with knit over knit and purl over purl until piece measures approx. 59-61-63-65-67-69 cm / 23¼”-24”-24¾”-25½”-26 3/8”-27 1/8” from shoulder and down.
Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work 2 ridges in the round. Switch back to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and bind off by knitting. Sweater measures approx. 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8”-24 3/8”-25¼”-26”-26¾”-27½” from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 50-58-62-64-68-68 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6- 6-8-8-10-12 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 56-64-70-72-78-80 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches under sleeve and begin round here. Work in stockinette stitch in the round.
When piece measures 2-2-2-2-3-3 cm / 3/4″-3/4″-3/4″-3/4″-1″-1” from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-2½-2-1½-1-1 cm / 1 1/4″-7/8″-3/4″-½”-3/8″-3/8 ” 7-10-12-12-14-14 times in total = 42-44-46-48-50-52 stitches.
Continue until sleeve measures 26-25-24-21-20-19 cm / 10 1/4″-9 3/4″-9½”-8 1/4″-8″-7½” (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke).
Knit 1 round while adjusting number of stitches to 40-40-48-48-48-48. Work A.4 in the round (= 5-5-6-6-6-6 repetitions of 8 stitches). When A.4 has been worked, switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6. Work 2 ridges in the round. Switch back to double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 and bind off by knitting. Sleeve measures approx. 30-29-28-25-24-23 cm / 11 3/4″-11½”-11″-9 3/4″-9½”-9” from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit = purl = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over = knit 2 together = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together = knit 3, pass first stitch worked over the other 2 so that this stitch is around the last 2 stitches = no stitch, skip this square